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Existing comment: Mary Todd Lincoln, 1818-1882
Mary Todd Lincoln was from a genteel family in Lexington, Kentucky. She was used to having fine things, and as first lady she understood the importance of keeping up appearances. Although she was perhaps the first to realize her husband's potential for high office, she also knew there was a crude, "frontier aura" about him that she tried to temper for her own sake as well as his.
"They say Mrs. L. is awfully western, loud and unrefined," quipped one Washington socialites. In part to counter such gossip, she refurbished the dowdy White House decor, hosted lavish balls, and spared no expense on her own wardrobe. This Mathew Brady photograph shows the new first lady in a festive ball gown in 1861, the first year of her husband's administration.
Mathew Brady Studio, reproduced from 1861 original

Note: Although today she is frequently referred to as Mary Todd Lincoln, once she married she never included her maiden name in her signature, unlike her half sister Emilie Todd Helm. Mary signed her name Mrs. Abraham Lincoln or Mrs. A. Lincoln. (from http://www.historynet.com/mary-todd-lincoln ) I was told that the insertion of the "Todd" name was done by the Todd family later on, just as they inserted it, somewhat less successfully, into Dolley Madison's name.
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