BGuthrie Photos: DC Heritage Trails: Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail

DC Heritage Trails: Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail:

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Specific picture descriptions: Photos above with "i" icons next to the bracketed sequence numbers (e.g. "[1] ") are described as follows:
1. TRCH_200417_001.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 10 On the Heights In the days of legally segregated public education (1862-1954), this school building was Central High, the gem of the School Board's white division. But by 1949, it had few students, as the post-World War II suburban housing boom had drawn whites away. Consequently, African American families outnumbered whites around Central. Nearby "Colored" high schools - especially Cardozo at Ninth Street and Rhode Island Avenue - struggled with overcrowded, outdated facilities. When activists pressed the city to move Cardozo's black students to Central, the white community resisted. But the School Board could not justify the waste of space. So in September 1950, with white students relocated to other schools, Central became Cardozo, the business high school for black students. Four years later with Brown v. Board of Education, the Supreme Court nominally integrated all DC schools. Long before there was a school here, though, this fabulous view was enjoyed by a sculptor and engraver named William J. Stone. In 1835 Stone moved into the Federal style "Mount Pleasant" house, once the center-piece of the prominent Peter family's thousand-acre estate here. During the Civil War, the house served as a hospital. In 1881 Senator John Sherman bought 121 acres, then laid out a subdivision between 11th and 14th Streets, naming it Columbia Heights. His contemporary, Senator John A. Logan of Illinois, a Civil War general, co-founder of Memorial Day, and future vice presidential candidate (1884), bought the old mansion and renamed it Calumet Place. Later, Logan's widow Mary rented it to Secretary of State William Jennings Bryan.
2. TRCH_200417_008.JPG: William J. Stone, right, posed in front of "Mount Pleasant," which once occupied this hilltop.
3. TRCH_200417_011.JPG: Ohio Senator John Sherman, above, developer of Columbia Heights, Illinois Senator John Logan, far right, seen with wife Mary and children, and presidential candidate William Jennings Bryan, right, were two of the powerful men who occupied "Mount Pleasant."
4. TRCH_200417_017.JPG: Ohio Senator John Sherman, above, developer of Columbia Heights, Illinois Senator John Logan, far right, seen with wife Mary and children, and presidential candidate William Jennings Bryan, right, were two of the powerful men who occupied "Mount Pleasant."
5. TRCH_200417_019.JPG: White Central High School students of the 1920s learned auto mechanics, left and bookkeeping, below.
6. TRCH_200417_021.JPG: White Central High School students of the 1920s learned auto mechanics, left and bookkeeping, below.
7. TRCH_200417_023.JPG: Left, in 1940 overcrowding forced Cardozo students to meet in the basement.
8. TRCH_200417_026.JPG: Cardozo students Jerome Earbe and Barbara Henderson learn data processing from teacher Margaret G. Saxon, 1968.
9. TRCH_200417_029.JPG: On March 12, 1967, the Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. spoke here at Cardozo to a public meeting on urban renewal plans for the Shaw neighborhood.
10. TRCH_200417_032.JPG: Citizen activists ran this full page ad, below, in the Washington Post in December 1949.
11. TRCH_200417_043.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
12. TRCH_200417_046.JPG: Members of Cardozo High School's Early Bird Club posed with sponsor Charles Brooks, left, in front of the school in 1979. The club met every school day from 7am to 9am.
13. TRCH_200417_051.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 9 Justice vs. Injustice These elegant 13th Street houses were constructed when racial separation was legal and widely accepted. In 1910 the deeds for many houses across 13th Street had covenants banning "any negro or colored persons." Those on this side generally did not have the covenants. By the 1930s, 13th Street divided black from white. Then, in 1941, African American educator Mary Hundley and her husband Frederick bought 2530 13th Street, on the white side, despite its restrictive covenant. Hundley was the granddaughter of William Syphax, founder of the nation's (and Washington's) first public high school for African Americans. White neighbors successfully sued the Hundleys for breaking the covenant, but a higher court overturned the ruling. In 1948 the U.S. Supreme cited the Hundley case when it decreed racially restrictive covenants unenforceable. Supreme Court Justice John Marshall Harlan once lived a block away, at 14th and Euclid Streets. In 1896 Harlan was the only justice to dissent when the Court ruled in Plessy v. Ferguson that "separate but equal" facilities were constitutional. That ruling "Dunbar High School French teacher Mary Hundley, fifth from left, poses with her students on the steps of the school, 1937" (Library of Congress.) helped justify the racially restrictive housing covenants that the Hundley case helped end. Economic discrimination spurred further activism in the 1970s. Protesters rallied for low-income tenants of houses subdivided into apartments who faced eviction by speculators seeking to convert their homes into condominiums. Across Euclid Street from this sign is number 1236, once the Afro-American Institute for Historic Preservation and Community Development. Established in 1970 by Robert and Vincent DeForest, the institute helped obtain National Historic Landmark status for more than 60 African American historic sites across the nation.
14. TRCH_200417_055.JPG: This Supreme Court declared "separate but equal" constitutional in 1896. Justice John Marshall Harlan, the only judge to disagree, is fourth from right.
15. TRCH_200417_057.JPG: Justice John Marshall Harlan's house at 14th and Euclid Sts., seen at the far right in 1889, left, and in the 1950s, above, after it had become the home of Tifereth Israel Synagogue.
16. TRCH_200417_059.JPG: Justice John Marshall Harlan's house at 14th and Euclid Sts., seen at the far right in 1889, left, and in the 1950s, above, after it had become the home of Tifereth Israel Synagogue.
17. TRCH_200417_062.JPG: This September 28, 1910, deed to Edward T. Lewis included a covenant forbidding sale or rental of the property, 2528 13th St. To "any negro or colored persons."
18. TRCH_200417_065.JPG: In the late 1970s the activist group Sojourners organized protests such as this one, below, at 2542 13th St., to save affordable rental housing.
19. TRCH_200417_068.JPG: Robert (left) and Vincent DeForest in their Euclid St. house display a preservation victory: the Richmond home of Maggie L. Walker, the nation's first woman to found a bank
20. TRCH_200417_076.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
21. TRCH_200417_083.JPG: Dunbar High School French teacher Mary Handle, fifth from left, poses with her students on the steps of the school, 1937.
22. TRCH_200417_085.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
23. TRCH_200417_088.JPG: Snow piled up at the 11th and Monroe trolley turnaround, 1947.
24. TRCH_200417_091.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 6 Holmead Legacy This spot once was the center of the Holmead family estate, "Pleasant Plains." The property stretched from today's Spring Road to Columbia Road, and from Georgia Avenue to Rock Creek. In 1740 the Holmeads built a house near here. In 1802, two years after Congress arrived in Washington, Col. John Tayloe leased land from the Holmeads to open the city's second racetrack (the first was walking distance from the White House where the Organization of American States is today on Constitution Avenue, NW). Congress regularly recessed to make post time at the one-mile track, which extended from today's 10th to 16th Streets, bordered on the south by Tayloe's Lane, now Columbia Road. During the 1800s Holmead descendents gradually sold off Pleasant Plains. In 1883 William and Mary Holmead laid out Holmead Manor, with 50-foot wide building lots. For themselves they built a large house at 3517 13th Street (behind you). That structure remains today, adapted for apartments. You can see its carriage house, tucked into the alley that you'll pass on your left en route to Sign 7. In 1909, shortly after 11th Street was built, the Anacostia & Pacific River Railroad's 11th Street line ended at Monroe Street. Added to existing lines on Georgia Avenue and 14th Street, the new line made this DC's best-served "streetcar suburb." As you proceed on Monroe to Sign 7, notice the small park at the end of the block where streetcars once turned around to head back downtown. Then turn right on 11th and continue to Kenyon Street.
25. TRCH_200418_001.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 19 The Latino Intelligence Center This block is home to some of the largest Latino organizations in the city, all founded as migration from Central America and the Caribbean increased in the 1970s. Several began with a boost from Cavalry United Methodist Church at 1459 Columbia Road. Since 1974 the Latin American Youth Center, now at 1419 Columbia Road, has supported youth and their families with education, employment, and social services. LAYC's Art & Media House is around the corner at 3035 15th Street. CentroNia, in the former C&P Telephone building at 1420 Columbia Road, emphasizes early education, and the Central American Resource Center (CARECEN) has offered legal, housing, education, and citizenship assistance since 1981. La Clinica del Pueblo at 2831 15th Street provides affordable medical care. Most neighboring schools and churches offer bilingual or multilingual programs. Almost 100 years before Latino groups made this their "intelligence center," renowned German immigrant Emile Berliner lived here. Berliner invented a microphone that proved crucial to the Bell telephone's operation. In 1883, he built a large house and laboratory at 1458 Columbia Road, where he also invented the gramophone (record player). With an interest in public health, Berliner founded the Bureau of Health Education and built its headquarters at 1460 Columbia Road (now CARECEN offices). The Fernwood apartments replaced Berliner's house in 1925. In 2000 Fernwood tenants faced eviction when the DC government condemned the building. Led by six Latinas, all named Maria, residents bought, renovated and created Las Marias Condominiums.
26. TRCH_200418_037.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
27. TRCH_200418_041.JPG: Area youth play volleyball at the Latin American Youth Center's block party on 15th St., 1989.
28. TRCH_200418_047.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 1 Main Street Fourteenth Street has always been the business backbone of Columbia Heights. Beginning in the 1890s, electric streetcars dropped passengers at nearly every corner, attracting commerce. By 1925 storefronts occupied the blocks between Euclid and Otis Streets. Most stores, often less than 20 feet wide, were family run and offered one line of products. In 192 on 14th Street between Irving Street and Park Road alone, you could find hats, bicycles, men's clothing, ladies' clothing, automobiles, hardware, musical instruments, candy, cigars, paint, meats, baked goods, and real estate. Larger establishments included drug stores, restaurants, movie theaters, and the Arcade, a granddaddy to the modern shopping mall, with food stalls and family entertainment. After World War II, nightspots featured "hillbilly" music and catered to migrants from rural states. In 1927 J. Willard and Alice Marriott, a young couple from Utah, chose a storefront on the west side of 14th Street for their first business. The opened an A&W Root Beer franchise at 3128 14th Street, added spicy Southwestern style food, and dubbed the enterprise Hot Shoppe. It grew into the Hot Shoppes chain, and by 1957, Marriott food services and hotels. The riots following the assassination of the Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., in April 1968 devastated 14th Street. Most of the businesses that weren't actually burned out closed, setting off a downward spiral. While immigrants and activists brought some new enterprises in the 1980s, it took the opening of the Columbia Heights Metrorail station in 1999 to begin the latest revival.
29. TRCH_200418_051.JPG: In 1926, the Barker Motor Company and Gude's Flowers occupied the site of today's Metro Station, across Irving Street.
30. TRCH_200418_054.JPG: Federal troops in gas masks approached from Hiatt Pl. as fire fighters set up to battle a blaze on Irving St. during the 1968 disturbances.
31. TRCH_200418_057.JPG: After the riots closed many businesses, Nation of Islam members opened Shabazz Restaurant at 14th and Irving Sts., seen here in 1973.
32. TRCH_200418_062.JPG: The Ding How (later Starlight) restaurant and night club once occupied the block of Irving St. to your left. A section of the Pontiac dealership facade can be seen today.
33. TRCH_200418_069.JPG: In 1946, these ladies in starched white uniforms and signature pocket hankies served scratch baked pies at Sholl's Georgian Cafeteria, 3027 14th St.
34. TRCH_200418_072.JPG: J. Willard Marriott, in the doorway, and his first employee, Robert Smice, pose at the first Hot Shoppe, 1927.
35. TRCH_200418_075.JPG: These businesses stood across 14th Street from this sign in 1960.
36. TRCH_200418_078.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
37. TRCH_200418_087.JPG: Saturday regulars line up at Harry Crandall's Savoy Theater to see Custer's Land Stand in 1936.
38. TRCH_200418_094.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 2 Amusement Palace The intersection of 14th Street and Park Road has been the center of community life since at least 1871, when the neighborhood was called Mount Pleasant and storekeeper George Emery made his living on the northwest corner to your left. Emery's emporium, the first on upper 14th Street, marked the end of the line for the horse-drawn omnibus (coach) that carried residents to the Treasury and other points downtown. "Its stock ranged all the way from mowing machines to dry goods," wrote Emery's son Fred. In 1892 the Washington and Georgetown Railroad Company began running electric streetcars up 14th Street to your left. After the line was extended in 1907, investors, including gramophone inventor and neighbor Emile Berliner, transformed the car barn into the Arcade, a combination market and amusement park. Best known for its street-level vendor stalls, the Arcade over time boasted a movie theater, sports arena, bowling alleys, skating rink, and dance hall upstairs, not to mention carnival fun in the Japanese Maze and the House of Trouble. "The big Arcade building was crowded from end to end with one of the happiest throngs imaginable," wrote the Washington Post about opening night. In November 1925 the newly organized American Basketball Association inducted DC's Palace Five. The Five (also called the "Laundrymen" for their first sponsor, Palace Laundry) played their first home-court Big League game at the Arcade. Some 2,500 fans watched them beat the Brooklyn Five, 18 to 17.
39. TRCH_200418_123.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
40. TRCH_200418_127.JPG: The Arcade, seen about 1925, occupied one-third of the block across 14th St. from 1910 until 1948, when it was torn down.
41. TRCH_200418_133.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 3 A City in Itself Columbia Heights by the mid 1920s was a center of white elite activity and commerce. The elegant, Neoclassical style Riggs Bank branch and the Italian Renaissance style Tivoli Theater opened to great acclaim. Soon after, radio station WRC moved into the bank building, its rooftop tower advertising the wondrous new technology. Harry Crandall's Tivoli was among the largest and grandest theaters in Washington. People literally danced in the streets the day it opened. The 2,500-seat theater hosted live shows as well as films. It was Washington's first movie house equipped for "talkies," movies with sound. With these two anchors, Columbia Heights in 1928 was "practically independent of downtown Washington," proclaimed the Washington Post. Then the housing demands of the Great Depression and World War II led some to subdivide the larger houses. New residents in the 1950s demanded more affordable goods and services. Soon the discount department store Morton's arrived, and the number of night spots increased. Like many other DC theaters, the Tivoli was segregated until forced by the Supreme Court in 1953 to desegregated. In the 1960s its programming shifted to attract local audiences in the now-predominantly African American community. Children enjoyed Saturday matinees for 25 cents, with 15-cent popcorn and 10-cent sodas. Despite the civil disturbances of 1968, the Tivoli remained a neighborhood anchor until it closed in 1976. Thanks to preservationists and area residents, the landmark was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1985 and was carefully restored in 2006.
42. TRCH_200418_169.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
43. TRCH_200418_173.JPG: Fred Waring and the Pennsylvanians performed at the Tivoli's 1924 opening.
44. TRCH_200418_180.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
45. TRCH_200418_183.JPG: George and Florence Baldadian's delicatessen served the neighborhood from 1412 Monroe St., in the Riggs-Tompkins Building, for two decades beginning in the 1940s.
46. TRCH_200418_187.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 4 After the Hard Times When the smoke cleared after the civil disturbances of April 1968, Columbia Heights lay devastated. Many residents and businesses simply left. Others remained to pick up the pieces. But who would help rebuild? Citizen groups, church leaders, and the federal government -- which controlled the city's pursestrings -- initially answered the call. The three-year-old Cardozo Heights Association for Neighborhood Growth and Enrichment (CHANGE), Inc., also responded with housing programs, health clinic, a "street academy" for adult education, and other assistance. The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development bought, or took by eminent domain, hundreds of properties, give some to the city for public housing,. Some damaged buildings, and many rowhouses that were simply old, were razed. Soon, on the block behind you, only the Tivoli Theater remained. In 1976-77 CHANGE -- All Souls Housing Corp. built the 406-unit Columbia Heights Village complex along 14th Street. However most of the land between Irving and Monroe Streets sat vacant for decades as city officials and community groups argued, and investors looked elsewhere. Though damaged, the grand Riggs-Tompkins Building, catty-corner to this sign, escaped demolition, thanks to the neighborhood preservationists who helped place it on the National Register of Historic Places. The Kelsey Temple Development Corp. added apartments for seniors above the original building. The largest enterprise to survive the disturbances was the Giant Food, then located at 3460 14th Street. It had opened in 1966 as a model facility after citizens complained that "inner-city neighborhoods" had inferior stores. In the difficult days after the riots, Giant joined Sacred Heart Church and St. Stephen and the Incarnation Church in distributing needed provisions.
47. TRCH_200418_224.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
48. TRCH_200418_228.JPG: Joseph Danzansky speaks at the 1977 dedication of the Washington Urban League's new offices.
49. TRCH_200418_240.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 5 Community Builders Harry Wardman, Washington's prolific developer, built nearly all of the 300 houses to your right between Monroe Street and Spring Road. Wardman, an English immigrant and self-made millionaire, became known for his rowhouses, whose front porches allowed neighbors to visit easily. These date from 1907 to 1911. Two adjoining Wardman buildings at 3501-3503 14th Street once housed Danzansky Funeral Home, originally opened in 1921 by Bernard Danzansky on Ninth Street, NW, as DC's first Jewish funeral home. Soon after, he moved his residence and business here, as affluent Jews migrated from the old city to newer "suburbs" such as Columbia Heights. Nearby the Jewish Social Service Agency as well as a mikvah -- a ritual purification bath -- also served the community. Dazansky later helped found the Hebrew House for the Aged and the Hebrew Academy of Washington. His wife Nettie was a leader in charitable work, and his son Joseph was president of Giant Food and twice headed the city's Board of Trade. When the funeral home relocated to Rockville, Maryland, the offices of the Washington Urban League moved in, remaining for 30 years before moving to 14th and Harvard Streets. Across 14th Street is Hubbard Place apartments. Long known as the Cavalier, the originally ritzy building was constructed by Morris Cafritz, a top DC developer. It was later converted to low-income housing, and in 2009 was renamed to honor the late community activist Leroy Hubbard. In the 1980s growing crime led to the formation of the "red-hat" Citizen Organized Patrol Effort (COPE) to walk the neighborhood and alert police to loitering, vacant properties, burn-out street lights, and other conditions that contributed to crime. To reach Sign 6, please proceed on Otis Place, then turn right on 13th to the intersection with Monroe Street.
50. TRCH_200429_05.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 16 Mansions, Parks, and People On your right is Josephine Butler Parks Center, home of Washington Parks & People, a network of groups devoted to DC and its parks. The network's 1927 mansion, which once housed the Hungarian delegation, was part of an embassy row envisioned by Mary Foote Henderson for this area. Henderson built a "castle" across 16th street for her family, and commissioned important architects to create an enclave worthy of important residents. Meridian Hill Park was also a result of her influence. In the 1980s, the park (by then also called Malcolm X Park) had become forbidding and dangerous, and the mansion was vacant. Then Friends of Meridian Hill came together in 1990. By the end of the decade, when Parks & People bought the mansion, the park again thrived. The first phase of the National Park Service's restoration of the park to its original design was completed in 2009. The Parks Center, housing nonprofit groups, memorializes Josephine Butler (1920-1997), a union and political activist and educator who led Washington Parks & People at the time of her death. Just ahead at the corner of Euclid Street is the Embassy of Ecuador, formerly the Netherlands Embassy. Please proceed through the park and turn right on 16th Street to reach Sign 17. Along the way you'll see Warder-Totten House at 1633 16th. George Oakley Totten Jr. architect of the Parks Center, salvaged most of a house designed by his teacher renowned architect H.H. Richardson, and rebuilt it here in Washington.
51. TRCH_200429_08.JPG: Two views of the Wander House in its original k St. location, before George Totten moved portions to 16th Street.
52. TRCH_200429_11.JPG: Two views of the Wander House in its original k St. location, before George Totten moved portions to 16th Street.
53. TRCH_200429_14.JPG: Mary Henderson's castle as seen from Meridian Hill Park.
54. TRCH_200429_17.JPG: Students dance before a banner of Malcolm X during a 1971 cultural fair shortly after activist Angela Davis suggested renaming the park.
55. TRCH_200429_20.JPG: Stokely Carmichael center, participates in an African Liberation Day March to Meridian Hill/Malcolm X Park, May 1978.
56. TRCH_200429_26.JPG: Friends of Meridian Hill volunteers clean the reflecting pool in the lower part of the park, early 1990s.
57. TRCH_200429_33.JPG: Advertising a 1990 Friends of Meridian Hill concert.
58. TRCH_200429_35.JPG: Children participate in a celebration of the Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.'s birthday, January 15, 2000.
59. TRCH_200429_39.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
60. TRCH_200429_42.JPG: In a June 1994 CHAMMP (Columbia Heights-Adams Morgan Mount Pleasant) event organized by Liz Lerman's Dance Exchange, dancers of all ages ring Meridian Hill / Malcolm X Park's pool.
61. TRCH_200510_01.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
62. TRCH_200510_05.JPG: Radical activist Angela Davis speaks from the pulpit at All Souls Church, 1974.
63. TRCH_200510_10.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 17 Social Justice Straight ahead is All Souls Church, Unitarian, long known for its social activism, starting with abolitionism in the 1820s and ranging through nuclear disarmament and interracial cooperation. During the segregation era, All Souls was one of the few places in DC open to integrated meetings. During the 1980s and '90s it (and other neighborhood churches) even hosted concerts by DC's influential punk bands Bad Brains, Fugazi, Minor Threat, and others. In the 1960s, the church launched the model Girard Street Playground Project in response to growing neighborhood crime. After the 1968 riots, the church worked with Change, Inc. to build 406 apartments on 14th Street. All Souls' first African American senior minister, Rev. David H. Eaton led the church as it opened its doors to Antioch Law School, DC Music Center, DC Rape Crisis Center, and other groups. Eaton also became president of the DC Board of Education in 1982. Others shared All Souls' commitment. Sojourners, a Christian social justice community, ran summer and after-school programs at 1323 Girard Street and at Clifton Terrace, and helped form the Southern Columbia Heights Tenant Union. Sojourners organizes nationally for social change. The Community for Creative Non-Violence grew out of anti-Vietnam War protests at George Washington University. After the war, CCNV opened soup kitchens, free clinics, and shelters. Eventually the group moved its headquarters to 1345 Euclid Street. Led by Mitch Snyder until his death in 1990, CCNV won political influence for its causes. Behind you on your right is the Mexican Cultural Institute, welcoming visitors to see exhibits and murals on Mexican life and history. The Institute succeeded the Mexican Embassy in the 1911 building originally the residence of Chicago Socialite Emily MacVeagh.
64. TRCH_200510_18.JPG: All Souls pastor and DC School Board President, Rev. David H. Seton, 1984.
65. TRCH_200510_19.JPG: A Poor People's Campaign participant receives medical care at All Souls Church, 1968.
66. TRCH_200510_23.JPG: Members of the Columbia Heights Youth Club received help with homework, around 1960. All Souls Church organized the group as the city's first integrated youth club in 1954.
67. TRCH_200510_25.JPG: Above, Minor Threat's Ian MacKaye and audience at 1963 punk music show.
68. TRCH_200510_28.JPG: Left, the Chilean exile group Inti Illimani performed at All Souls in 1974, a year after a coup d'etat brought in the Pinochet dictatorship.
69. TRCH_200510_29.JPG: This view of the murals created by Diego Rivera protege Roberto Cueva del Rio in the Mexican embassy in 1941 also shows the handiwork of noted architect Nathan Wyeth.
70. TRCH_200510_32.JPG: Representative Steve Stark [D-California] pulls usable food from a dumpster behind Giant Food, 14th and Newton Sts. during CCNV campaign for the hungry, 1982.
71. TRCH_200510_36.JPG: Former CCNV leader, Mitch Snyder.
72. TRCH_200531_001.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 7 Nob Hill For Nearly 50 Years, this corner was home to Nob Hill Restaurant, one of the nation's first openly gay bars for-and run by-African Americans. Started in the 1950s as a private social club, Nob Hill went public in 1957. Patrons enjoyed entertainment ranging from male dancers to weekly "Gospel Hours" with local church choirs. One regular called the low-key club "a house party that charged a cover." When Nob Hill closed in 2004, it was considered DC's longest-operating gay bar. Across Kenyon Street are the playing fields of Harriet Tubman Elementary School. The school opened in 1970 amid controversy over whether it would destroy the neighborhood's essential character. Despite resident efforts to block the school; construction went ahead, displacing 17 longstanding businesses along 11th Street and fine, three-story rowhouses on 13th, Irving, and Kenyon Streets. The remaining single-story commercial strip behind you dates back to the early 1910s, shortly after the 11th Street streetcar line arrived and increased foot traffic here. As you proceed to Sign 8, you'll pass Columbia Road, where Ralph Bunche lived at number 1123 in the early 1930s. Bunche later founded Howard University's Political Science Department and served as a U.S. diplomat. For his work on establishing the state of Israel, Bunche received the Nobel Peace Prize in 1950, the first African American so honored.
73. TRCH_200531_006.JPG: These stores on 11th Street were razed to build Harriet Tubman Elementary School.
74. TRCH_200531_014.JPG: Nobel Prize winner Ralph Bunche received the Diamond Cross of Malta from previous year's recipient Marian Anderson, 1951.
75. TRCH_200531_017.JPG: Ralph Bunche lived in this house at 1123 Columbia Rd.
76. TRCH_200531_023.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail More than 200 years ago, city planner Pierre Charles L'Enfant designed a new capital city on the low coastal plain at the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, bordered on the north by a steep hill. Today the hill defines Columbia Heights. Cultural Convergence: Columbia Heights Heritage Trail takes you on a tour of the lively neighborhood that began as a remote suburb of Washington City. Over time, transportation innovations, starting with streetcars, made Columbia Heights accessible and desirable. Soon, men and women of every background populated the neighborhood, people who changed the world with new technology, revolutionary ideas, literature, laws, and leadership. From the low point of the civil disturbances of 1968, Columbia Heights turned to resident leaders and rose again. Metrorail's arrival in 1999 provided a boost, reviving the historically important 14th Street commercial corridor. Experience both the new and old Columbia Heights, with all its cultural and economic diversity, as you talk this walk.
77. TRCH_200531_038.JPG: The Wilson Normal 1924 graduating class in front of the school (Rosario Public Charter School since 2004).
78. TRCH_200531_045.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 8 Girard Street Elites The 1100 and 1200 blocks of Girard Street once were home to a "Who's Who" of African American leaders. This and nearby "double-blocks" are the heart of John Sherman's Columbia Heights subdivision. By placing all houses 30 feet from the street's center, Sherman created a gracious and inviting streetscape. The elegant rowhouses, built mostly between 1894 and 1912, echoed the social and economic class of their first, white residents. By the 1920s black families began arriving from neighborhoods to the east and south. Many had ties to nearby Howard University. Dr. Montague Cobb of 1221 Girard, a foremost physical anthropologist, headed the Howard Medical School's Anatomy Department and helped lead the NAACP. His colleague, Dr. Roland Scott of 1114 Girard, chaired Pediatrics and led the fight against sickle cell disease. Dorothy Porter Wesley, of 1201 Girard, developed the Moorland-Spingarn Research Center, the eminent library of the African Diaspora. Educator Paul Phillips Cooke, who led the American Veterans Committee and became President of D.C. Teachers College, moved to 1203 Girard as a boy in 1928 and remained until 2006. Across Girard Street is Carlos Rosario Public Charter School, originally the white Wilson Normal School (teachers college) and later part of the University of the District of Columbia. As you walk to Sign 9, you'll pass Fairmont Street, where jazz pianist, composer, and educator Billy Taylor grew up at 1207. Music teacher Henry Grant, mentor to both Taylor and Duke Ellington, once lived at 1114. Home rule activist Rev. Channing Phillips lived at 1232 Fairmont before becoming, in 1968, the first African American nominated for U.S. president at a major party convention.
79. TRCH_200531_048.JPG: Hilda (Mrs. Montague) Cobb, top row, right, poses with the Mignonettes social club at her Girard St. home, 1952
80. TRCH_200531_051.JPG: Dr. W. Montague Cobb, second from left, and the St. George's String Quartet, 1939.
81. TRCH_200531_054.JPG: Jazz musician Billy Taylor, above, grew up at 1207 Fairmont St. Young Billy, top right, posed with brother Rudy, bottom right, and cousins around 1930.
82. TRCH_200531_063.JPG: Jazz musician Billy Taylor, above, grew up at 1207 Fairmont St. Young Billy, top right, posed with brother Rudy, bottom right, and cousins around 1930.
83. TRCH_200531_067.JPG: Educator Dr. Paul Phillips Cooke in his D.C. Teachers College office and posing in front of his home as a Garnet-Patterson Junior High School graduate, below.
84. TRCH_200531_068.JPG: Educator Dr. Paul Phillips Cooke in his D.C. Teachers College office and posing in front of his home as a Garnet-Patterson Junior High School graduate, below.
85. TRCH_200531_070.JPG: Rev. Channing Phillips, candidate for U.S. president, 1968.
86. TRCH_200531_076.JPG: Dunbar High School music teacher Henry Grant, at right with the All High Schools Orchestra in 1936, influenced Duke Ellington and Billy Taylor.
87. TRCH_200531_083.JPG: Dr. Roland Scott, right, and Dorothy Porter Wesley and student, below.
88. TRCH_200531_084.JPG: Dr. Roland Scott, right, and Dorothy Porter Wesley and student, below.
89. TRCH_200531_087.JPG: Cultural Convergence Columbia Heights Heritage Trail 11 Views of Justice On your left once stood Belmont, an impressive stone mansion built in 1883 by entrepreneur Amzi L. Barber, "America's Asphalt King." Barber headed the Education Department at Howard University at the time of its founding in 1867. He soon bought land from the university to build the exclusive LeDroit Park neighborhood. Next he entered the asphalt paving business, and came to dominate it nationwide. Barber also worked with Ohio Senator John Sherman to create the Columbia Heights subdivision. For years Belmont was a landmark that greeted streetcar riders cresting the 14th Street hill. Justice William R. Day was one of the powerful men who lived nearby. After Barber's death, developer Harry Wardman bought Belmont, only to replace it in 1915 with Wardman Courts, then the city's largest luxury apartment complex. In 1921 new owners named it Clifton Terrace. The once-glamorous complex did not age well, and succeeding owners deferred maintenance and crowded more tenants into the units. By the 1960s, the situation was so bad that, with help from CHANGE, Inc. and others, tenants organized and stopped paying rent. When the landlord tried to evict them, the tenants sued. In a landmark 1970 ruling by the U.S. Court of Appeals, Javins v. First National Realty Corporation established the right of tenants to withhold rent payments when conditions violated housing codes. Social activist Rev. Channing Phillips's Housing Development Corporation renovated Clifton Terrace in the late 1960s. In 2003 the buildings, once again named Wardman Courts, reopened as condominiums and rental units.
90. TRCH_200531_125.JPG: The library of Amzi Barber's Belmont, which once stood where Wardman Courts stand, photographed around 1890.
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