CA -- San Francisco -- Golden Gate NRA -- Lands End:
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Specific picture descriptions: Photos above with "i" icons next to the bracketed sequence numbers (e.g. "[1] ") are described as follows:
LANDS_180714_007.JPG: The Golden Gate
Deep sea geology exposed
LANDS_180714_012.JPG: Port of San Francisco
Canoes, clipper ships, and steamers
LANDS_180714_023.JPG: Lands End
LANDS_180714_026.JPG: A Sharp Edge
LANDS_180714_030.JPG: Living on the Edge
LANDS_180714_034.JPG: Exploring Lands End
LANDS_180714_055.JPG: Death of a Sailor
Reinhardt J. Keppler
Died serving his country fighting raging flames to save our ship, USS San Francisco at midnight, Nov. 12-13, 1942
Honored by surviving crew members
May 29, 2000
LANDS_180714_058.JPG: USS San Francisco CA-38
LANDS_180714_061.JPG: The Naval Battle of Guadalcanal
Friday the 13th November 1942
By July 1942 Japan's military juggernaut had invaded and occupied Korea, Manchuria, China, Hong Kong, Burma, Borneo, New Guinea, Rabaul, Truk, The Philippines, Aleutians, Marshalls, Carolines, and the Solomons, which includes Tulagi, Savo and Guadalcanal Island. "A steamy, tropical malaria infested jungle."
The Japanese worked feverishly to build airfields on several islands. The airfield on Guadalcanal was their last and most important. It was strategically located since the Japanese Air-Corps could then "hop" from Japan to Iwo Jima, Guam, Rabaul, Truk, Bougainville, and then Guadalcanal. Their next planned invasion was Australia.
U.S. Marines landed on Guadalcanal August 7th 1942. They captured and secured the airfield, naming it "Henderson Field". True to their tradition and dedication, the Marines fought for months against thousands of Japanese soldiers attempting to regain control of the airfield. Dramatic aerial "Dog Fights" were fought daily in the skies above.
Japan's Vice Admiral Hiroaki Abe was dispatched to bombard and land troops on Guadalcanal. His strike force consisted of two 32,000 ton Battleships -- The Hiei and the Kirishima. Together they could fire off 23,840 pounds of bombardment salvos every three minutes - spewing deadly carnage - continuously for three hours. Also under his command were one Cruiser, 14 Destroyers, and 11 Transports carrying 14,000 troops.
Rear Admiral Daniel J. Callaghan, on board his flagship the USS San Francisco (CA-38), a 10,000 ton treaty cruiser, was directed to intercept the Japanese Naval Strike Force. His command consisted of 5 Cruisers and 8 Destroyers.
On November 12th, near Guadalcanal, a damaged enemy plane crashed into the USS San Francisco, destroying the Aft Control Station, killing and wounding 51 men. With a crippled flagship, RADM Callaghan bravely prepared his task force for this imminent battle. Overheard on the bridge was the comment "But this is suicide". Rear Admiral Callaghan -- cool, calm, and resolute, replied -- "Yes, I know, but we've got to do it!"
This ferocious battle commenced at 1:48AM, Friday the 13th of November 1942. It was a sudden clash between 27 steel armored warships - 14 Japanese and 13 American. The U.S. Naval Ships had penetrated into the center of the Japanese battleship formation, a major advantage for RADM Callaghan.
Massive guns exploded in the pitch black night, firing hot projectiles with smoke and fire. Suddenly, the Japanese snapped on their bright searchlights. This gave the Admiral an additional advantage by identifying the enemy ships. He then issued the order "Get the Big Ones First". Hundreds of salvos rained down on the enemy battleships with blistering devastation. Blazing ships became targets.
Hundreds of men on both sides escaping from their sinking ships swam for their lives in the black night sea. Men were killed by the spinning propellers of ships twisting and turning to avoid collision. Many more were killed by circling sharks.
Never in the history of modern warfare had U.S. Naval forces clashed with enemy ships at collision range in a pitch black night. This is the only U.S. Naval surface ship engagement in which an American Admiral was killed in action, let alone two: RADM Daniel J. Callaghan of the USS San Francisco (CA-38), RADM Norman Scott on the USS Atlanta (CL-51).
A total of more than 6,000 men on both sides were killed or wounded, 2 US Carriers, 4 US Destroyers and 2 Japanese Destroyers were sunk. At dawn, the Battleship Hiei aflame, floundering, and dead in the water -- a derelict -- abandoned and sank later that day. During the next few days, other Japanese ships were chased down and sunk, including the Battleship Kirishima.
The USS San Francisco, severely damaged and crippled, limped home at Christmas time to receive a new bridge and other major repairs at the Mare Island Naval Shipyard. She then returned to sea to give battle and bombardment support for landings and occupations in the Pacific. These included: the Aleutians, Wake, Kwajalein, Bougainville, Tarawa, Yap, Palau, Ulihi, Rabaul, Truk, Guam, Saipan, Tinian, Luzon and the Battle of the Philippine Sea, then on to Iwo Jima, and finally Okinawa, where the USS San Francisco (CA-38) earned her 17th battle star.
This battle on November 13th 1942, was a major turning point of World War II. It prevented the possible loss of Henderson Field, thus saving Australia from the planned invasion. It marked the beginning of victory in the Pacific.
Twenty-Four Minutes of Thundering Hell On Iron Bottom Bay
LANDS_180714_064.JPG: These two granite plaques are a gift from the men who served on this great ship. This monument commemorates and memorializes the survivors of this ferocious battle and especially to those men who are still at sea never to return.
LANDS_180714_067.JPG: On 12 & 13 November 1942 in the most savage Naval engagement at close quarters in history the United States Navy decisively turned back the enemy at Guadalcanal.
In memory of
Admiral Daniel J. Callaghan
and men of the U.S.S. San Francisco who there gave their lives for their country and for freedom.
15 November 1992
LANDS_180714_070.JPG: To honor all marines who have served aboard this gallant ship
LANDS_180714_081.JPG: This memorial to Rear Admiral Daniel Judson Callaghan, U.S.N. and his officers and men who gave their lives for our country, while fighting on board the USS San Francisco in the battle of Guadalcanal on the night of 12-15 November 1942, was formed from the bridge of their ship and were mounted on the great circle course to Guadalcanal by the grateful people of San Francisco on 12 November 1950.
LANDS_180714_094.JPG: In Salute
to the Officers and Men, living and dead, of the
U.S.S. "San Francisco"
a warship named for our city, which though sorely wounded, emerged triumphantly from the Battle of Guadalcanal, November 12-13 1942 after inflicting heavy losses on the enemy.
"A very powerful Japanese force was moving at night toward our position in the Solomon Islands. The spearhead of the force that we sent to intercept the enemy was under the command of Rear Admiral Daniel J. Callaghan. He was aboard the leading ship, the cruiser San Francisco. San Francisco sailed right into the enemy fleet – right through the whole enemy fleet – her guns blazing. She engaged and hit three enemy vessels, sinking one of them. At point-blank range, she engaged an enemy battleship – heavily her superior in size and firepower. She silenced this battleship's big guns and so disabled her that she could be sunk by torpedoes from our destroyers and aircraft. ** The San Francisco herself was hit many times. Admiral Callaghan, my close personal friend, and many of his gallant officers and men gave their lives in this battle. But the San Francisco was brought safely back to port by a lieutenant commander*, and she will fight again for our country. The commander of the task force of which the San Francisco was a part has recommended that she be the first of our Navy's vessels to be decorated for outstanding service. But there are no citations, no medals, which carry with them such high honor as that accorded to fighting men by the respect of their comrades-in-arms. The commanding general of the Marines on Guadalcanal, General Vandergrift, yesterday sent a message to the commander of the fleet, Admiral Halsey, saying: ‘We lift our battered helmets in admiration for those who fought magnificently against overwhelming odds and drove the enemy back to crushing defeat'. **Let us thank God for such men as these. May our Nation continue to be worthy of them, throughout this war, and forever."
Franklin D. Roosevelt
President of the United States
and Commander–in-Chief
November 17, 1942
The City and County of San Francisco offers this tribute in commemoration of loyalty to God and Country.
LANDS_180714_102.JPG: Navigating the Golden Gate
Bonfires, buoys, and foghorns
Deep channels make San Francisco's remarkable harbor accessible to immense ships. On the other hand, a narrow entrance, swift currents, high winds, rocks, and fog make navigating the Golden Gate treacherous. Early mariners looked for on-shore bonfires, painted rocks, and natural landmarks to find their way. Today, navigators rely on buoys, beacons, foghorns, charts, sonar, and satellite-based global positioning systems.
Distinctive characteristics make some individual navigation aids immediately identifiable. Each lighthouse, for example, flashes a signature pattern, and each foghorn has a unique sound. By simply "reading" lighthouse or foghorn signals, sailors and ship pilots can determine their location and navigate in poor visibility conditions. Nonetheless, numerous ships have failed to make it through the Golden Gate and now belong to shipwreck lore.
Troopship entering Golden Gate, 1951
Traffic in, out, and around the bay is coordinated by the U.S. Coast Guard's Vessel Traffic Service. The Coast Guard also maintains the bays buoys, lights, and foghorns.
Alcatraz lighthouse, c. 1945
The oldest beacon on the West Coast is still in operation on Alcatraz. First lit in 1854, when Gold Rush fortune seekers were flooding through the Golden Gate, the light was moved into a taller lighthouse in 1909 and automated in 1963.
Nautical charts provide information you'll never see on a road map, including water depths, the locations of potential hazards, and the identifying frequencies – or signatures – of foghorns. This simplified chart has been overlaid with symbols representing the various navigation aids in operation around the entrance to San Francisco harbor.
This whitewashed patch of cliff once served as a navigation aid to ships entering the Golden Gate strait. Pilots knew they were safely within the shipping lane if "Painted Rock" at Lands End was aligned with Mile Rock lighthouse. This marker is still visible along the trail a short walk east of here.
Mile Rock lighthouse, constructed in 1906, was converted to a helicopter landing pad with an automated light in 1966.
LANDS_180714_133.JPG: Sutro's Steam Train
All aboard for Lands End
In the early 1880s, three miles of sand dunes separated the developed areas of San Francisco from Lands End, where Adolph Sutro was developing popular seaside attractions – Cliff House, the gardens of Sutro Heights, the seven swimming pools at Sutro Baths. A private rail line ran out to Ocean Beach, but Sutro felt its ten-cent fare was outrageous.
To provide affordable public transit, Sutro funded the Ferries & Cliff House Railway. Beach-goers could transfer from cable cars downtown and ride the steam train to Lands End for a mere five-cents. The train's route wound along this cliff, affording unobstructed ocean views, earning a reputation as one of the most scenic short-line railroads ever built.
Ferries & Cliff House Railway train, c. 1900
The Ferries & Cliff House Railway ran three and one quarter miles from the corner of California Street and Presidio Avenue to the depot across from Sutro Heights. Coming around the slope just ahead, the train traveled the same course the California Coastal Trail follows today, past the spot where you stand.
Ferries & Cliff House Railway route, 1897
Periodic landslides plagued the rail line. Retaining walls along parts of the track and ongoing repairs kept the train (and then the electric trolley that replaced it in 1905) running for years. However, a landslide destroyed the line once and for all in 1925.
The end of the line was a wooden terminal located at the corner of 48th and Point Lobos Avenues – directly across from the entrance to Sutro Heights.
LANDS_180714_150.JPG: Ohlone Site
Seasonal camp of the Yelamu tribe
LANDS_180714_299.JPG: She was modeling for a photographer
LANDS_180714_356.JPG: Peoples of the Coast
Why did they live here?
Alson, Aptos, Carquin, Huchiun, Oljon, Tamien, Matsun, Rumsen, Yelamu … these are jst a few of the 50 or so Indian tribes that populated the coastal area from Carquinez Strait to south of Monterey Bay. For at least 10,000 years prior to European settlement, native peoples made this land their home. Each of these small tribes, consisting of 3 to 10 villages, had it sown leader and occupied its own established territory. Although the tribes were politically independent, they were related by similar languages and cultural traditions. Today these native people are collectively referred to as "Ohlone." But they have also been called "Costanoan."
This north end of the San Francisco peninsula was Yelamu territory. From their permanent village sites farther inland, the Yelamu traveled to Lands End year after year, to camp above the Pacific. They pried mussels from the rocks, and gathered birds' eggs or favorite plant foods. They hunted seals for meat and skins. A fresh water spring, which still flows beneath the shrubbery on the slope, provided drinking water and fed a marsh below.
Imagine the cove below you without the Sutro Baths ruins, as in Yelamu times. Can you see the rocks and beach crowded with sea lions? Can you hear those hundreds of noisy sea lion voices being carried up the cliff by the wind? In the distance, Yelamu men paddle canoe-shaped boats made of bundled tule reeds. From these boats, they can hunt sea mammals or cast their fishing nets. Rich natural resources from land and sea have attracted people to this area throughout the ages. Think of the many men, women and children who have come before us and stood in this very special place.
There was much more to life than just work. Games, songs, stories and dance – although some were serious – also made for plenty of fun and laughter. Through oral traditions, especially story and song, mythology and history were passed from generation to generation. Necklaces of abalone shell and elaborate dance regalia of feather capes, headdresses and feather "ropes," among other adornments, enriched and beautified daily life.
Thanks to the members of the Ohlone community who developed the text and images for this exhibit.
Tule reeds, which in the past would have grown in marshy areas such as the cove below, are the perfect boat building material. Why? Each stem is filled with tiny air pockets making it buoyant in water.
Today, Ohlone people continue to live in the Bay Area, carrying on their native culture, and sharing it with us. In 2001, members of the Ohlone community constructed a small tule house in the park at Crissy Field in the Presidio of San Francisco.
LANDS_180714_368.JPG: A Human-Shaped Landscape
LANDS_180714_380.JPG: What Defines Victory?
LANDS_180714_396.JPG: Exploring Lands End
LANDS_180714_427.JPG: Flags indicate where seedlings were planted
AAA "Gem": AAA considers this location to be a "must see" point of interest. To see pictures of other areas that AAA considers to be Gems, click here.
Wikipedia Description: Lands End (San Francisco)
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Lands End is a park in San Francisco within the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. It is a rocky and windswept shoreline at the mouth of the Golden Gate, situated between the Sutro District and Lincoln Park and abutting Fort Miley Military Reservation. A memorial to the USS San Francisco stands in the park. Numerous hiking trails follow the former railbeds of the Ferries and Cliff House Railway along the cliffs and also down to the shore.
The most-traveled trail in Lands End is the Coastal Trail, a section of the California Coastal Trail that follows the railbed of the old Cliff House Railway. This trail is handicap-accessible until the Mile Rock Overlook, and bike accessible until the Eagles Point steps. A spur trail takes users to Mile Rock Point and Mile Rock Beach, which offer views of the Golden Gate.
Additionally, Lands End contains the ruins of the Sutro Baths. Other historic sites include numerous shipwrecks, which are visible at low tides from the Coastal Trail and Mile Rock.
A visitor center, Lands End Lookout, opened on April 28, 2012.
History
The Yelamu Ohlone tribe lived at Lands End before Spanish settlement began in 1776. After the Gold Rush, entrepreneurs designed the new Cliff House as a fashionable resort for the wealthy. A private company constructed a new road called Point Lobos Avenue. By the 1860s, a horse-drawn stagecoach made the trip every Sunday from crowded downtown San Francisco out to Lands End. During the 1880s, millionaire Adolph Sutro constructed a passenger steam train from downtown to Lands End for the affordable fare of 5¢. In 1891, an old miner called Charles Jackson announced that he had discovered a vein of bituminous coal under the cliffs at Baker Beach, on Sutro's land; Sutro had a tunnel dug 200 feet under the railroad track and confirmed the find, but the mine was never exploited and is hard to access today as a result of landslides.
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Directly Related Pages: Other pages with content (CA -- San Francisco -- Golden Gate NRA (South Side) -- Lands End) directly related to this one:
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2018_CA_SF_Lands_EndVC: CA -- San Francisco -- Golden Gate NRA -- Lands End -- VIsitor Center (66 photos from 2018)
2018 photos: Equipment this year: I continued to use my Fuji XS-1 cameras but, depending on the event, I also used a Nikon D7000.
Trips this year:
Civil War Trust conferences in Greenville, NC, Newport News, VA, and my farewell event with them in Chicago, IL (via sites in Louisville, KY, St. Louis, MO, and Toledo, OH),
three trips to New York City (including New York Comic-Con), and
my 13th consecutive trip to San Diego Comic-Con (including sites in Reno, Sacramento, San Francisco, and Los Angeles).
Number of photos taken this year: about 535,000.
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