NY -- NYC -- Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum -- Exhibit: Jewelry of Ideas: Gifts from the Susan Grant Lewin Collection:
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- Description of Pictures: Jewelry of Ideas: Gifts from the Susan Grant Lewin Collection
Now through Monday, May 28 2018
Featuring nearly 150 brooches, necklaces, bracelets, and rings created by seminal designers from Europe, Asia, Australia, and North America, Jewelry of Ideas illuminates the radical conceptual and material developments in jewelry design that have transformed the field. Beginning with mid-20th-century American and European pioneers who pushed the boundaries of form and material, the exhibition traces the evolution of jewelry up to the avant-garde developments of the 1980s and through to the most recent innovations.
The works on view show how jewelry has moved far beyond its aesthetic considerations to stake out new creative territories through a mastery of materials, innovative techniques, and conceptual inquiry. In the collection are many of the field’s most experimental designers, including Joyce Scott, Friedrich Becker, Ted Noten, Kiff Slemmons, Otto Künzli, Ramona Solberg, Arline Fisch, Thomas Gentille, Attai Chen, and Jamie Bennett.
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- Copyrights: All pictures were taken by amateur photographer Bruce Guthrie (me!) who retains copyright on them. Free for non-commercial use with attribution. See the [Creative Commons] definition of what this means. "Photos (c) Bruce Guthrie" is fine for attribution. (Commercial use folks including AI scrapers can of course contact me.) Feel free to use in publications and pages with attribution but you don't have permission to sell the photos themselves. A free copy of any printed publication using any photographs is requested. Descriptive text, if any, is from a mixture of sources, quite frequently from signs at the location or from official web sites; copyrights, if any, are retained by their original owners.
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- Specific picture descriptions: Photos above with "i" icons next to the bracketed sequence numbers (e.g. "[1] ") are described as follows:
- CHJEWI_171222_09.JPG: Jewelry of Ideas: Gifts from the Susan Grant Lewin Collection
Spanning the worlds of design, craft, and art, the contemporary jewelry in this gift from the Susan Grant Lewin collection captures the diversity and achievements of over 100 jewelers from eighteen countries. For nearly four decades, Lewin has passionately supported this evolving field, cultivating personal relationships with established and emerging jewelers from across the globe.
The earliest works in the exhibition are by mid-20th-century American and European pioneers who pushed the boundaries of form and material and set the stage for future developments. These groundbreaking works are followed by highly innovative abstract compositions based on simple geometric shapes or mathematical engineering principles and others more organic in nature. A selection of painterly two-dimensional pieces serve as small canvases for the body. A major section presents content-driven jewelry that draw on themes of memory and metaphor, popular culture, the human body, and nature. Highly conceptual works comment on humankind's desires and foibles that have long motivated our passion for jewelry.
The value of each piece lies in the unique idea of the jeweler as expressed through a mastery of materials, whether commonplace or costly, and innovative techniques that range from traditional metalsmithing to assemblage to computer-aided design. The inventive new forms prompt us to question jewelry's history and social function, conventional standards of beauty, and relationship of scale to the human body. Extravagant metals and gemstones frequently take on a subordinate role in the designs -- thus subverting the traditional notion of preciousness in jewelry.
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