DC -- Natl Air and Space Museum -- Temporary Exhibit: Hawaii By Air (in Gallery 104):
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Description of Pictures: Hawaii by Air
July 25, 2014 – July 2015
You may not realize it, as you while away the time on your long flight from the mainland to Hawaii, but you are traveling to one of the most remote places on Earth. Jetliner travel makes it easy to forget how challenging it once was to reach Hawaii by air. The Hawaiian Islands are mere specks in the vast Pacific. Flying there in the early days of flight was not for the faint of heart. Bad weather, a navigational error, or an engine failure could spell doom. This exhibition recounts how things have changed since then, how air travel to Hawaii developed and grew, how the travel experience evolved along with the airplane, and how air travel changed Hawaii itself.
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Specific picture descriptions: Photos above with "i" icons next to the bracketed sequence numbers (e.g. "[1] ") are described as follows:
SIAIHI_141010_001.JPG: Hawaii By Air
July 2014 - July 2015
SIAIHI_141010_008.JPG: Hawaii By Air
You may not realize it, as you while away the time on your long flight from the mainland to Hawaii, but you are traveling to one of the most remote places on Earth.
Jetliner travel makes it easy to forget how challenging it once was to reach Hawaii by air. The Hawaiian Islands are mere specks in the vast Pacific. Flying there in the early days of flight was not for the faint of heart. Bad weather, a navigational error, or an engine failure could spell doom.
Hawaii by Air recounts how things have changed since then. How air travel to Hawaii developed and grew. How the travel experience evolved along with the airplane. And how air travel changed Hawaii itself.
SIAIHI_141010_021.JPG: "Paradise of the Pacific"
Remote, Exotic, and Sublime
People had been traveling to Hawaii for adventure and pleasure long before the airplane. During the 1800s, they came by sailing ship and then by steamship. As interest in the islands spread, Hawaii began promoting itself as the "Paradise of the Pacific."
By the 1920s, thousands of wealthy travelers were sailing to Hawaii on luxury liners and staying in grand hotels at a new resort area near Honolulu called Waikiki.
SIAIHI_141010_028.JPG: Strangers In Paradise
Before the mid-1800s, few real tourists came to the Hawaiian Islands. For the whalers and sailors and traders who passed through, it was mainly a place to rest and resupply their ships. But other travelers soon began arriving – naturalists, writers, artists, scientists. They braved the weeks-long ocean journey to experience Hawaii's tropical beauty, Polynesian culture, and active volcanoes.
SIAIHI_141010_034.JPG: "For me its balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun; the pulsing of its surfbeat is in my ear; I can see its garlanded crags, its leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore."
-- Mark Twain, 1889
"The loveliest fleet of islands"
-- Mark Twain
Thirty-year-old Samuel Clemens, who had recently adopted the pen name Mark Twain, arrived in Hawaii in 1866 to write a series of travel letters for a Sacramento newspaper. He explored Oahu, traveled to Maui and climbed Haleakala, and visited the Big Island of Hawaii and the fiery crater of Kilauea.
Twain stayed four months and fell in love with Hawaii. Years later he famously described it as "the loveliest fleet of islands that lies anchored in any ocean."
SIAIHI_141010_038.JPG: "The loveliest fleet of islands"
-- Mark Twain
Thirty-year-old Samuel Clemens, who had recently adopted the pen name Mark Twain, arrived in Hawaii in 1866 to write a series of travel letters for a Sacramento newspaper. He explored Oahu, traveled to Maui and climbed Haleakala, and visited the Big Island of Hawaii and the fiery crater of Kilauea.
Twain stayed four months and fell in love with Hawaii. Years later he famously described it as "the loveliest fleet of islands that lies anchored in any ocean."
SIAIHI_141010_041.JPG: Roughing It
by
Mark Twain
SIAIHI_141010_044.JPG: To Twain a coconut tree "looked like a feather duster struck by lightning."
Twain traveled among the islands on both schooner and steamship and wrote about the crowded, dingy, and unpleasant conditions.
SIAIHI_141010_048.JPG: Twain wrote about the ancient Hawaiian sport of surfing.
"In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf bathing."
Twain found that surfing was harder than it looked.
"None but the natives ever master the art of surf bathing thoroughly."
SIAIHI_141010_052.JPG: Twain visited Kilauea and was struck by the caldera's size and fiery beauty.
"The greater part of the vast floor of the desert under us was to black as ink... but over a mile square of it was ringed and streaked and striped with a thousand branching streams of liquid and gorgeously brilliant fire!"
"The smell of sulfur is strong but not unpleasant to a sinner."
Twain and several others made a dangerous nighttime descent into the caldera.
SIAIHI_141010_058.JPG: Twain and his partners reached a lava lake.
"Under us, and stretching away before us. was a heaving sea of molten fire of seemingly limitless extent."
SIAIHI_141010_061.JPG: Twain stayed at the recently opened Volcano House on the edge of the Kilauea caldera.
"The surprise of finding a good hotel at such an outlandish spot startled me considerably more than the volcano did."
SIAIHI_141010_065.JPG: "A cool breeze brings in at my open doors the perfumed air and the soft murmur of the restful sea, and this beautiful Honolulu...is at last, as it was at first, Paradise in the Pacific, a bright blossom of a summer sea."
-- Isabella Bird, 1873
"A bright blossom of a summer sea"
-- Isabella Bird
Englishwoman Isabella Bird led a daring life of travel. Despite constant struggles with physical ailments, she journeyed across the globe and visited places remote and rough. She wrote many popular books about her adventures.
Bird visited Hawaii in 1873 while traveling to improve her health. She stayed more than half a year and wrote long letters home about her travels throughout the islands.
SIAIHI_141010_069.JPG: "A bright blossom of a summer sea"
-- Isabella Bird
Englishwoman Isabella Bird led a daring life of travel. Despite constant struggles with physical ailments, she journeyed across the globe and visited places remote and rough. She wrote many popular books about her adventures.
Bird visited Hawaii in 1873 while traveling to improve her health. She stayed more than half a year and wrote long letters home about her travels throughout the islands.
SIAIHI_141010_073.JPG: "This is Hawaii calling..."
The live radio show "Hawaii Calls" began broadcasting Hawaiian-style music and entertainment from the courtyard of the Moana Hotel in 1935. Webley Edwards hosted the weekly program for most of its run. For 40 years "Hawaii Calls" nurtured dreams of paradise in many a distant mainland listener.
SIAIHI_141010_080.JPG: Tourism Blossoms
Travel to Hawaii grew after the United States annexed the islands in 1898. By then, the journey at sea had dropped from three or four weeks by sailing ship to a week or less by steamship. Published travelers' tales, fond memories of soldiers and sailors who passed through, and efforts by Hawaii to attract visitors all helped spread the islands' allure.
SIAIHI_141010_088.JPG: In 1893 white plantation owners overthrew the Hawaiian monarchy and Queen Lili'uokalani and established a provisional government. Despite petitions by Native Hawaiians, the islands were annexed by the United States in 1898 and became a U.S. territory.
SIAIHI_141010_095.JPG: "To slip smoothly down through six days of delicious rest and languor is fit preparation for entering into the presence of this queen of the sundown sea."
-- Mabel Clare Craft, 1899, on traveling to Hawaii
Hawaii by Luxury Liner
By the 1880s, you could travel from San Francisco to Honolulu on regularly scheduled steamships. By the 1920s, you could do so in luxury on those of a company famous for serving Hawaii.
Matson Navigation Company met and fostered the growing interest in visiting Hawaii by introducing ever larger, faster, and more modern passenger liners. Matson's splendid "white ships" soon became Hawaiian icons.
SIAIHI_141010_100.JPG: "Waikiki Beach has been so skillfully publicized that the name brings a wistful yearning for exotic romance, for relaxation and freedom from care on a magic, distant shore."
-- Charles McKew Parr, Over and Above Our Pacific, 1942
On the Beach at Waikiki
Despite its ramshackle farms and houses and mosquito-infested wetlands, Waikiki had long been a popular place for rest and recreation. It had been a favored spot for Hawaiian chiefs from before the arrival of Captain Cook.
To accommodate the rising tide of tourists expected to visit the new U.S. territory, Hawaiians built resort hotels on the beach, drained the wetlands, and made sweeping improvements. The tourist tide rose indeed and flooded into Waikiki.
SIAIHI_141010_105.JPG: "Miss Rae Chadwick and Miss Norma Stewart, Weber county school teachers, will leave for Hawaii June 7 on the S.S. Lurline. They will spend the summer there."
-- Newspaper announcement
SIAIHI_141010_114.JPG: Interisland by Air
Safe, Comfortable, and Fast
If you wanted to travel from island to island before 1929, you took a boat. The crossings were long and slow, and often uncomfortable in rough, rolling seas.
Then something new arrived: regularly scheduled service via the flying boats of a new airline, Inter-Island Airways. Flying made island-to-island travel a breeze. But many an islander wondered: was flying those long over-water routes safe?
SIAIHI_141010_119.JPG: Hawaii by Flying Clipper
Fast, Luxurious, and Exclusive
Born in the eventful year of 1927, Pan American Airways quickly spun a web of routes over the Caribbean and Latin America. Then it set its sights on the Pacific and Hawaii.
In 1935 Pan Am launched the first transpacific air mail service through Hawaii. A year later it began carrying passengers on that route. Thus began the brief, romantic reign of the giant seaplanes Pan Am called flying clippers.
SIAIHI_141010_123.JPG: Pan Am Spans the Pacific
Creating a transpacific route presented great challenges. Pan Am had to survey the world's longest oceanic air route, build air bases and hotels on remote Pacific islands, and find an aircraft company to design and build flying boats big and powerful enough to carry heavy payloads across the longest landless air route in the world.
Transpacific Service from the Ground Up
Pan Am's plans for a northern Pacific air route that hugged the continental coasts fell through. So it chose a central Pacific route through Hawaii.
Captain Edwin Musick, Pan Am's famous chief pilot, led four survey flights across the Pacific in 1935 to plan the route. Meanwhile, a steamship delivered equipment, supplies, and crews to build bases and hotels on the islands along the way.
"Five years ago there were neither the ships, nor the bases, nor the trained pilots and navigators and ground men. And now here it was, Pan American Airways service to the Orient."
-- H.R. Ekins, Around the World in Eighteen Days and How to Do It, 1936
SIAIHI_141010_131.JPG: "She is a beauty... Practically every comfort of a modern hotel has been provided. If the progress of the last few years is continued, airplanes will have swimming pools before long."
-- Dorothy Kilgallen, Girl Around the World, 1936
SIAIHI_141010_134.JPG: Log Book
SIAIHI_141010_136.JPG: The President and Directors of Pan American Airways System have the pleasure of presenting to
Richard F. Bradley
this souvenir log book as an historical record of his trip on the inaugural flight of the trans-Pacific route of the System.
Juan Trippe was the founder and president of Pan American Airways, which became one of the most prominent and innovative airlines of the 20th century. Under his leadership, Pan Am introduced Clipper Ship flying boats, the first around-the-world airline service, and jetliner travel in America.
SIAIHI_141010_149.JPG: Captain Edwin Musick was Pan Am's top pilot. He helped plan the airline's route across the Pacific, and commanded the first transpacific flight of the China Clipper in 1935.
First officer H.E. Gray was one of the first 10 pilots hired by Pan Am. He became Pan Am's president after Juan Trippe retired in 1968.
Fred Noonan was one of the best navigators of his time. He is probably best known for disappearing with Amelia Earhart on their ill-fated round-the-world flight in 1937.
SIAIHI_141010_153.JPG: $$$ Cost Converter
How much did Bradley's ticket cost? How much would it cost today?
Bradley's ticket today would cost about $51,000.
Richard F. Bradley (left), aviation manager for the San Francisco office of Standard Oil, bought Ticket #1 for the first scheduled passenger flight.
SIAIHI_141010_164.JPG: The Bride on the Philippine Clipper
by Helen A. Hagerman
SIAIHI_141010_169.JPG: Helen Hagerman flew to Manila in 1937 to marry. She wrote about the trip in a booklet entitled
The Bride on the Philippine Clipper
These are condensed excerpts from it.
SIAIHI_141010_174.JPG: What Was It Like to Depart?
"After having waited five days in San Francisco I received word from the Pan American office that the Clipper was leaving Alameda Airport at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, January 25, 1937. They were going to attempt to carry two extra passengers."
"My bags were immediate taken by a porter and weighed in. Much to my relief they weight only forty-eight pounds, which was just right."
"The man at the desk said he was sorry but it would be necessary to turn the camera over to the Steward to be sealed. There is a rule prohibiting pictures being taken from the air due to Navy regulations."
"You can imagine how excited we were as we walked down the dock and climbed the little ladder to the plane. The Steward ushered us into two cabins where we were seated. The interior of the pane is surprisingly large and very attractive."
SIAIHI_141010_180.JPG: "The Steward offered each of us a little package containing gum and cotton for our ears in case the noise of the motors might bother us."
"Then the four motors started with a terrific roar and we taxied from the landing. The plane gathered speed at an amazing rate. Before we knew it we were in the air. The take-off was so smooth that those who had been at all afraid settled back with a look of relief bordering on amazement."
What Was It Like to Fly?
"We were carrying two extra passengers, making thirteen in all, which was two more than they had ever taken into Honolulu."
"As the plane gained altitude the cabin became very chilly. The men looked comical with hats and overcoats on and blankets wrapped around their feet. The Steward started serving dinner about seven o'clock and due to the large number of passengers did not finish until twelve o'clock."
SIAIHI_141010_184.JPG: "The plane was very stuffy inside due to their being so many passengers as the Stewards let us put out heads out the back cockpit, one at a time, for a breath of air."
"There were only four regular bunks. What a time we all had trying to undress in a two-by-four space between the bunks. The bunks themselves were like turkish baths as the heat for the plane came through the ceiling. I must admit however that I slept very well indeed. The sound of the motors is so steady that it doesn't bother you at all and the plane itself is steadier than a train, usually."
"That night the plane had not been flying as smoothly as usual due to the fact that we had to fly around the edge of a very bad thunder storm. This made us four hours late."
SIAIHI_141010_191.JPG: "We first glimpsed Honolulu about ten o'clock in the morning and our noses didn't leave the windows until we landed in Pearl Harbor. We made a perfect landing."
"Just overnight we had come from a really cold place into a paradise. I fell in love with Honolulu the very first hour I was there."
SIAIHI_141010_198.JPG: This Pan Am baggage label highlighting the Philippines was introduced after the airline added "World" to its name after World War II.
SIAIHI_141010_204.JPG: What Was It Like to Fly?
A trip to Hawaii on a Pan Am clipper was a trip you never forgot. Most people could only dream of visiting Hawaii, let alone by air. The vast majority still traveled by ocean liner. But those fortunate few who flew experienced airborne luxury and comfort that became legendary.
Flying on a Martin M-130 Clipper
Passenger numbers on a clipper depended on fuel needs and cargo–air mail and packages had priority. Usually only eight or nine passengers (sometimes fewer) flew on the long mainland-Hawaii hop. The clippers flew one trip a week in each direction.
SIAIHI_141010_211.JPG: Cutaway drawing of a Boeing 314
SIAIHI_141010_215.JPG: War!
On December 7, 1941, everything changed. Bombs and bullets ravaged Oahu, plunging America into World War II. Other Japanese attacks erupted across the Pacific. Midway, Wake, Guam, Hong Kong, and the Philippines were struck. Martial law was declared in Hawaii. Sea and air travel to and among the islands for nonmilitary purposes ended. So did the brief six-year reign of Pan Am's luxurious flying clippers
SIAIHI_141010_230.JPG: Fly to Hawaii
Now You Can Afford It!
If you were among the vast numbers of men and women stationed in Hawaii during World War II, you likely wanted to return someday. Now, after the war, that dream trip to paradise was becoming increasingly possible.
Things were changing. Gone were Pan Am's flying boats, replaced by faster and more economical landplanes. More airlines had begun to serve the islands. All this meant lower fares in a time of growing prosperity. Hawaii braced for a tourism boom.
SIAIHI_141010_236.JPG: Competition in the Air
Pan Am had been America's sole international airline. But after the war, others were granted overseas routes. United and Northwest Airlines opened routes to Honolulu from mainland west coast cities. With the Pacific coast population growing and airfares falling, more people than ever could reach Hawaii in a single flight.
SIAIHI_141010_239.JPG: United and Northwest
After a ground-breaking legal battle, United Airlines won the right to fly overseas. Both United and Northwest Airlines were granted Pacific routes, ending Pan Am's monopoly.
United opened daily service to Honolulu from San Francisco in 1947 and from Los Angeles in 1950.Northwest opened a transpacific route to Manila via Anchorage, Alaska, in 1947. Then two years later, it began flying to Honolulu from Seattle and Portland.
SIAIHI_141010_275.JPG: Hawaiians have been surfing for centuries. In the early 1900s, Duke Kahanamoku, a Hawaiian-born Olympic champion swimmer, popularized the sport internationally.
A statue of Duke stands on Waikiki Beach. Many people honor him by placing colorful leis on the memorial.
SIAIHI_141010_291.JPG: Travel Among the Islands
Aloha in the Air
The steamship company that founded Hawaiian Airlines pulled up its gangplanks for the last time in 1948. Why spend hours traveling among the Hawaiian Islands by ship, when Maui, Kauai, or the Big Island were just scenic minutes away from Oahu by air? Everyone wanted to fly.
Interisland flying was changing too. Hawaiian Airlines now faced fierce competition in the form of upstart Aloha Airlines. Package tours offering trips to other islands were also becoming popular.
SIAIHI_141010_294.JPG: Hawaii by Jet
Paradise in Just a Few Hours
On August 21, 1959, Hawaii became the 50th state. A few weeks later, Pan Am began scheduled jetliner service to Honolulu. The combination of those two events brought a surge in tourism and profound changes to the Hawaiian Islands.
Even the most optimistic tourism forecasts fell short. By the late 1970s, tourism had grown into Hawaii's main economic engine, surpassing agriculture and the military combined.
SIAIHI_141010_297.JPG: Statehood
With statehood, Hawaii seemed more reassuringly "American" to many Americans, who became eager to discover the nation's newest and most exotic state. And now with jets, you could fly there from the mainland in just hours at increasingly affordable fares. A tsunami of visitors soon swept over Hawaii's shores.
SIAIHI_141010_300.JPG: Even the most optimistic tourism forecasts proved too conservative. A 1960 analysis of the new state's tourism potential predicted that an astounding 1.5 million visitors would arrive annually by 1980. But by then, more than 4 million were arriving each year.
1927: First of four Matson luxury liners begins serving Hawaii. Royal Hawaiian Hotel opens.
1937: First full year of Pan Am passenger service.
1941: Last year before WWII.
1949: Stratocruisers introduced.
1959: Statehood. Jets begin serving Hawaii.
1967: Visitation tops 1 million.
1970: Jumbo jets begin serving Hawaii.
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2014 photos: Equipment this year: I mostly used my Fuji XS-1 camera but, depending on the event, I also used a Nikon D7000.
Trips this year:
three Civil War Trust conferences (Winchester, VA, Nashville, TN, and Atlanta, GA),
Michigan to visit mom in the hospice before she died and then a return trip after she died, and
my 9th consecutive San Diego Comic-Con trip (including Las Vegas, Reno, Carson City, Sacramento, Oakland, and Los Angeles).
Ego strokes: Paul Dickson used one of my photos as the author photo in his book "Aphorisms: Words Wrought by Writers".
Number of photos taken this year: just over 470,000.
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